Saturday, February 18, 2012

Overview: Screen Printing Inks


Plastisol - Oil based inks
    The most common ink used in commercial garment decoration. Good colour opacity onto dark garments and clear graphic detail with, as the name suggests, a more plasticized texture. This print can be made softer with special additives or heavier by adding extra layers of ink. Plastisol inks require heat (approx. 150°C (300°F) for many inks) to cure the print.

Water-Based inks
    These penetrate the fabric more than the plastisol inks and create a much softer feel. Ideal for printing darker inks onto lighter coloured garments. Also useful for larger area prints where texture is important. Some inks require heat or an added catalyst to make the print permanent.

PVC and Phthalate Free
    Relatively new breed of ink and printing with the benefits of plastisol but without the two main toxic components - soft feeling print.

Discharge inks
    Used to print lighter colours onto dark background fabrics, they work by removing the dye in the garment – this means they leave a much softer texture. They are less graphic in nature than plastisol inks, and exact colours are difficult to control, but especially good for distressed prints and underbasing on dark garments that are to be printed with additional layers of plastisol.

Flocking
    Consists of a glue printed onto the fabric and then foil or flock (or other special effect) material is applied for a mirror finish or a velvet touch.

Glitter/Shimmer
    Metallic flakes are suspended in the ink base to create this sparkle effect. Usually available in gold or silver but can be mixed to make most colours.

Metallic
    Similar to glitter, but smaller particles suspended in the ink. A glue is printed onto the fabric, then nanoscale fibers applied on it.

Expanding ink (puff)
    An additive to plastisol inks which raises the print off the garment, creating a 3D feel.

Caviar beads
    Again a glue is printed in the shape of the design, to which small plastic beads are then applied – works well with solid block areas creating an interesting tactile surface.

Four colour process or the CMYK color model
    Artwork is created and then separated into four colours (CMYK) which combine to create the full spectrum of colours needed for photographic prints. This means a large number of colours can be simulated using only 4 screens, reducing costs, time, and set-up. The inks are required to blend and are more translucent, meaning a compromise with vibrancy of colour.

Gloss
    A clear base laid over previously printed inks to create a shiny finish.

Nylobond
    A special ink additive for printing onto technical or waterproof fabrics.

Mirrored silver
    Another solvent based ink, but you can almost see your face in it.

Suede Ink
    Suede is a milky coloured additive that is added to plastisol. With suede additive you can make any colour of plastisol have a suede feel. It is actually a puff blowing agent that does not bubble as much as regular puff ink. The directions vary from manufacturer to manufacturer, but generally you can add up to 50% suede additive to your normal plastisol.

GOTS Vs OEKOTEX


GOTS Certified Organics.
The Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS) is a standard used around the world that guarantees the organic products you bring into your home are healthy and safe for you and the environment – and provide a fair and just working environment for those who manufacture them.
The aim of GOTS is to be a credible resource for consumers looking for textiles that produced in an environmentally and socially responsible method. Not only are these fabrics free of harmful chemicals, the results of the production pose no threat to the environment or the communities in which they are produced. This universal standard assures that no harmful or toxic chemicals are used from harvest to manufacture, including the dyeing, washing, and finishing processes. The standard even examines the disposal of waste and wastewater treatment. Strict guidelines have to met in working conditions as well; companies must provide a safe a hygienic environment, with livable wages, appropriate working hours, and absolutely no child labor.www.global-standard.org.

Oeko-Tex Standard
The Oeko-Tex Standard 100, developed by a group of European textile institutes, is a global testing and accreditation program for the screening of harmful substances in consumer textiles. Products with the Okeo-Tex label are tested and guaranteed to be free of all harmful substances, including toxins and irritants.
What’s the difference between the Oeko-Tex certification and the GOTS certification? Both certify textiles to be free of all harmful chemicals, but GOTS takes it a step further and certifies that no harmful chemicals were used from harvest through manufacture, waste is disposed of responsibly, and fair labor practices are enforced.www/oeko-tex.com.

SKAL
Control Union World Group, formerly called SKAL, surveys the organic production by means of inspection and certification. Inspections consist of visits to farms, processing and importing units, but also examination of soil, crop or tissue samples and administrative assessments. Their certification process includes the entire process of growing the cotton, spinning the fibers, and storing the yarns at the production site. Certification is issued periodically, once the manufacturing site has been checked and process is established. These controls and checks are ongoing.www.controlunion.com.

Products that are called “natural” don’t have to go though a verification process to use the term. Typically, organic sheets are more expensive than comparable products that are not organic, almost twice as much in some cases. 

Sunday, February 12, 2012

Methods of Chest Printing


No.
Print Type
Print Method
1)
Non PVC Whites & Colours
3strokes followed by Dry @ 160deg,10secs followed by 3strokes followed by Dry @ 160deg,10secs followed by 2strokes followed by Cure @ 170degrees for 2mins
(fusing @ 180deg,3mins,5bar is optional to improve hand feel)
2)
Discharge Print
2strokes followed by Cure @ 170degrees for 3mins
3)
Pigment print
2strokes followed by Cure @ 150degrees for 2mins


Types of Prints & inks in screen printing

//General classification of printing inks//

  • Plastisols (Conventional)
  • Water based inks

Water based inks:

  • Non PVC Water based inks (for all grounds)
  • Discharge Print (for dark ground)
  • Pigment paste prints (for light ground)
  • Specialties

Discharge inks available in market:

  1. Conventional wet discharge inks
  2. Dry discharge (normal)
  3. Dry discharge (formaldehyde free)
  4. Ready discharge with premixed activator
  5. Oil based discharge (emulsion)
  6. Indigo & Denim discharge
  7. Plascharge (Plastisol & discharge combination)
Specialties:
  1. Foil binders
  2. Flock binders
  3. Glitter binders
  4. Crack whites & clear
  5. Stretch whites & clear
  6. Puff or foam
  7. High density
  8. Radium inks
  9. UV sensitive inks
  10. Heat sensitive pigments
  11. Lacquer inks
  12. Nylon inks
  13. CMYK Process colours
  14. Sublimation inks
Inks for Pigment printing
  1. Binder
  2. Thickener
  3. Softener
  4. Fixer
  5. Ammonia & Urea
Non PVC Inks
  • Water based non pvc (wider use)
  • Oil based non pvc (Userfriendly & costly)

MAJOR RETAILER CHAINS THROUGH TIRUPUR


  • C & A
  • DISNEY
  • DESIGUAL
  • TOM TAYLOR
  • S.OLIVER
  • FILA – USA
  • ADIDAS – GERMANY
  • NIKE – USA
  • REEBOK – USA
  • MOTHERCARE
  • DIESEL
  • PUMA
  • QUICKSILVER
  • NEXT
  • NIMBUS
  • PRIMER
  • LEVIS – USA
  • JOCKEY
  • JONES
  • JACK & JONES
  • VAN HEUSEN
  • POLO – USA
  • RUSSEL CORP – USA
  • BENETTON – ITALY
  • GAP – USA
  • O’NEILL
  • TOMMY HILFIGER
  • OLD NAVY - USA
  • BANANA REPUBLIC - USA
  • HANES – USA
  • PEACOCK



What is RSL??


RSL - Restricted Substance List; which is implemented by 2major countries namely USA & Europe which becomes the most mandatory standard for textile wears. The simple concept is our bodywear should not contain any harmful chemicals which can be carcinogenic.

LIST OF RESTRICTED SUBSTANCES IN TEXTILE WEARS

  • Aromatic Amines from Azo Dyes
  • Disperse dyes and other dyes
  • Biocides
  • Chlorinated aromatics
  • Isocyanates
  • Flame Retardants
  • Heavy Metals
  • Organotin compounds
  • Solvents
  • Phthalates
  • Auxiliary chemicals
  • Polycyclic aromatic hydrocarbons
  • Packaging
  • RoHS - Electrical and Electronic equipment requirements

CMYK Printing on Textile T Shirts

Dear friends, On thinking a new evolution in textile screen printing; everybody is having high passion including me. Here comes the vie...