Sunday, December 16, 2012

Govt revises textiles export target upward at $40.5 bn

The government has revised upwards the textiles export target to $40.5 billion for 2012-13, despite the demand slowdown in major western markets like the US and Europe.
Earlier, the Textiles Ministry had set an export target of $38 billion for the current fiscal.

"After sops were announced in the Foreign Trade Policy (FTP), the exporters have responded positively and based on it we have revised this year's textiles exports target upwards," Textiles Secretary Kiran Dhingra said.

Segments including apparel, handicrafts and carpets are upbeat about exports performance this year, she added.

To encourage exports, the government extended the interest subsidy scheme for one more year till March 31, 2013 covering segments like handlooms, handicrafts, carpets and SME sector. Besides, the garment sector was included in the scheme.

The market-linked focus product scheme was also extended till the end of the current fiscal for exports to the US and the European Union in respect of the apparel sector.

The zero % duty Export Promotion Capital Goods (EPCG) Scheme for technology upgradation extended till March 31, 2013. The scheme allows import of capital goods at zero customs duty subject to an export obligation equivalent to six times of duty saved to be fulfilled in six years.

During April-May this fiscal, the country's handicrafts and carpets shipments grew at an average rate of over 10 % year-on-year. However, apparel exports growth remained flat during this period.

"The textiles exports trend in the first two months have been slow compared to the last year, yet the industry is pinning hopes on the recent announcements in the FTP, rupee depreciation and new markets," Dhingra said.

The exporters are exploring new markets like Latin America, Russia, Japan and Africa to reduce dependence on traditional markets like the US and Europe.

The US and Europe comprise 65 % of the country's total textiles exports.

During 2011-12, India's textiles exports touched $34 billion compared to $26 billion in the previous year.

Earlier, the industry has been clamouring over high raw- material prices, high interest rates, besides demand slowdown in its major markets.

To help the cash-starved industry, the government has announced the restructuring of debt worth Rs 35,000 crore to bail out the textile mills.

The sector was hit hard by a sharp fall in cotton yarn prices and poor domestic and global demand. Textiles units were facing difficulty in repaying term loans.

Courtesy: Business Standard

Sunday, June 3, 2012

When the printing area will tear..??

There is always a question to our buyer; after printing especially Water based inks say Glitter binder or shimmer or even foil print tears in a low GSM fabric after a stretch. If you face such a problem; just analyse the fabric throughly before going on to the solution. If the fabric / yarn possess;
  • Good count
  • Good bursting strength
then comes the pH. Keep in mind, if the pH of the printing ink is in acidic medium, it affects the fibre and tend to lose its strength and it causes tear even after proper curing.

So, will you do print properly in neutral medium..?

(Comments are welcome..)

Thursday, May 24, 2012

Heavy Metals in Printed Garment

The below table explains the details of acceptable limit of Heavy metals in Oekotex Standard 100. The units given are in ppm(parts per million) can also be taken as mg/kg; whichever is required. All the values given are applicable for Kids wear (Oekotex Class 1)


Heavy Metals
Acceptable Limit mg/kg)
Antimony
30.0
Arsenic
0.2
Lead
0.2
Cadmium
0.1
Chromium
1.0
Cobalt
1.0
Copper
25.0
Nickel
1.0
Mercury
0.02

Saturday, February 18, 2012

Overview: Screen Printing Inks


Plastisol - Oil based inks
    The most common ink used in commercial garment decoration. Good colour opacity onto dark garments and clear graphic detail with, as the name suggests, a more plasticized texture. This print can be made softer with special additives or heavier by adding extra layers of ink. Plastisol inks require heat (approx. 150°C (300°F) for many inks) to cure the print.

Water-Based inks
    These penetrate the fabric more than the plastisol inks and create a much softer feel. Ideal for printing darker inks onto lighter coloured garments. Also useful for larger area prints where texture is important. Some inks require heat or an added catalyst to make the print permanent.

PVC and Phthalate Free
    Relatively new breed of ink and printing with the benefits of plastisol but without the two main toxic components - soft feeling print.

Discharge inks
    Used to print lighter colours onto dark background fabrics, they work by removing the dye in the garment – this means they leave a much softer texture. They are less graphic in nature than plastisol inks, and exact colours are difficult to control, but especially good for distressed prints and underbasing on dark garments that are to be printed with additional layers of plastisol.

Flocking
    Consists of a glue printed onto the fabric and then foil or flock (or other special effect) material is applied for a mirror finish or a velvet touch.

Glitter/Shimmer
    Metallic flakes are suspended in the ink base to create this sparkle effect. Usually available in gold or silver but can be mixed to make most colours.

Metallic
    Similar to glitter, but smaller particles suspended in the ink. A glue is printed onto the fabric, then nanoscale fibers applied on it.

Expanding ink (puff)
    An additive to plastisol inks which raises the print off the garment, creating a 3D feel.

Caviar beads
    Again a glue is printed in the shape of the design, to which small plastic beads are then applied – works well with solid block areas creating an interesting tactile surface.

Four colour process or the CMYK color model
    Artwork is created and then separated into four colours (CMYK) which combine to create the full spectrum of colours needed for photographic prints. This means a large number of colours can be simulated using only 4 screens, reducing costs, time, and set-up. The inks are required to blend and are more translucent, meaning a compromise with vibrancy of colour.

Gloss
    A clear base laid over previously printed inks to create a shiny finish.

Nylobond
    A special ink additive for printing onto technical or waterproof fabrics.

Mirrored silver
    Another solvent based ink, but you can almost see your face in it.

Suede Ink
    Suede is a milky coloured additive that is added to plastisol. With suede additive you can make any colour of plastisol have a suede feel. It is actually a puff blowing agent that does not bubble as much as regular puff ink. The directions vary from manufacturer to manufacturer, but generally you can add up to 50% suede additive to your normal plastisol.

GOTS Vs OEKOTEX


GOTS Certified Organics.
The Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS) is a standard used around the world that guarantees the organic products you bring into your home are healthy and safe for you and the environment – and provide a fair and just working environment for those who manufacture them.
The aim of GOTS is to be a credible resource for consumers looking for textiles that produced in an environmentally and socially responsible method. Not only are these fabrics free of harmful chemicals, the results of the production pose no threat to the environment or the communities in which they are produced. This universal standard assures that no harmful or toxic chemicals are used from harvest to manufacture, including the dyeing, washing, and finishing processes. The standard even examines the disposal of waste and wastewater treatment. Strict guidelines have to met in working conditions as well; companies must provide a safe a hygienic environment, with livable wages, appropriate working hours, and absolutely no child labor.www.global-standard.org.

Oeko-Tex Standard
The Oeko-Tex Standard 100, developed by a group of European textile institutes, is a global testing and accreditation program for the screening of harmful substances in consumer textiles. Products with the Okeo-Tex label are tested and guaranteed to be free of all harmful substances, including toxins and irritants.
What’s the difference between the Oeko-Tex certification and the GOTS certification? Both certify textiles to be free of all harmful chemicals, but GOTS takes it a step further and certifies that no harmful chemicals were used from harvest through manufacture, waste is disposed of responsibly, and fair labor practices are enforced.www/oeko-tex.com.

SKAL
Control Union World Group, formerly called SKAL, surveys the organic production by means of inspection and certification. Inspections consist of visits to farms, processing and importing units, but also examination of soil, crop or tissue samples and administrative assessments. Their certification process includes the entire process of growing the cotton, spinning the fibers, and storing the yarns at the production site. Certification is issued periodically, once the manufacturing site has been checked and process is established. These controls and checks are ongoing.www.controlunion.com.

Products that are called “natural” don’t have to go though a verification process to use the term. Typically, organic sheets are more expensive than comparable products that are not organic, almost twice as much in some cases. 

Sunday, February 12, 2012

Methods of Chest Printing


No.
Print Type
Print Method
1)
Non PVC Whites & Colours
3strokes followed by Dry @ 160deg,10secs followed by 3strokes followed by Dry @ 160deg,10secs followed by 2strokes followed by Cure @ 170degrees for 2mins
(fusing @ 180deg,3mins,5bar is optional to improve hand feel)
2)
Discharge Print
2strokes followed by Cure @ 170degrees for 3mins
3)
Pigment print
2strokes followed by Cure @ 150degrees for 2mins


Types of Prints & inks in screen printing

//General classification of printing inks//

  • Plastisols (Conventional)
  • Water based inks

Water based inks:

  • Non PVC Water based inks (for all grounds)
  • Discharge Print (for dark ground)
  • Pigment paste prints (for light ground)
  • Specialties

Discharge inks available in market:

  1. Conventional wet discharge inks
  2. Dry discharge (normal)
  3. Dry discharge (formaldehyde free)
  4. Ready discharge with premixed activator
  5. Oil based discharge (emulsion)
  6. Indigo & Denim discharge
  7. Plascharge (Plastisol & discharge combination)
Specialties:
  1. Foil binders
  2. Flock binders
  3. Glitter binders
  4. Crack whites & clear
  5. Stretch whites & clear
  6. Puff or foam
  7. High density
  8. Radium inks
  9. UV sensitive inks
  10. Heat sensitive pigments
  11. Lacquer inks
  12. Nylon inks
  13. CMYK Process colours
  14. Sublimation inks
Inks for Pigment printing
  1. Binder
  2. Thickener
  3. Softener
  4. Fixer
  5. Ammonia & Urea
Non PVC Inks
  • Water based non pvc (wider use)
  • Oil based non pvc (Userfriendly & costly)

MAJOR RETAILER CHAINS THROUGH TIRUPUR


  • C & A
  • DISNEY
  • DESIGUAL
  • TOM TAYLOR
  • S.OLIVER
  • FILA – USA
  • ADIDAS – GERMANY
  • NIKE – USA
  • REEBOK – USA
  • MOTHERCARE
  • DIESEL
  • PUMA
  • QUICKSILVER
  • NEXT
  • NIMBUS
  • PRIMER
  • LEVIS – USA
  • JOCKEY
  • JONES
  • JACK & JONES
  • VAN HEUSEN
  • POLO – USA
  • RUSSEL CORP – USA
  • BENETTON – ITALY
  • GAP – USA
  • O’NEILL
  • TOMMY HILFIGER
  • OLD NAVY - USA
  • BANANA REPUBLIC - USA
  • HANES – USA
  • PEACOCK



What is RSL??


RSL - Restricted Substance List; which is implemented by 2major countries namely USA & Europe which becomes the most mandatory standard for textile wears. The simple concept is our bodywear should not contain any harmful chemicals which can be carcinogenic.

LIST OF RESTRICTED SUBSTANCES IN TEXTILE WEARS

  • Aromatic Amines from Azo Dyes
  • Disperse dyes and other dyes
  • Biocides
  • Chlorinated aromatics
  • Isocyanates
  • Flame Retardants
  • Heavy Metals
  • Organotin compounds
  • Solvents
  • Phthalates
  • Auxiliary chemicals
  • Polycyclic aromatic hydrocarbons
  • Packaging
  • RoHS - Electrical and Electronic equipment requirements

CMYK Printing on Textile T Shirts

Dear friends, On thinking a new evolution in textile screen printing; everybody is having high passion including me. Here comes the vie...